Vipul Shaha and Sheetal Sanghvi
“My legs are paining but my soul is rested”, borrowing words from Gandhi, described our state of being even as we struggled to walk that ‘last mile’ to reach the Nature Cure Ashram where a friend had invited us for staying over at night. It was nothing short of a miracle for us to have just completed a 35-kilometer walk from Pune to Saswad in rather scorching heat as part of the annual waari pilgrimage. Perhaps it was the Shakti of Bhakti (the power of faith) that kept us going through an incredible daylong journey.
Growing up in Maharashtra, one cannot miss
the annual pilgrimage that takes place from Alandi to Pandharpur. Popularly called as ‘waari’—it is a tradition that goes back to over 700 years and draws
over a million people from across the state to walk a distance of about 250
kilometers spread over an 18 day journey through villages, towns and
cities. This year, we felt a spontaneous
call to join-in the pilgrimage even if for a short time, and to really
understand the spirit of this mega-event that has just passed us by for so many
years. No definite plan, no particular agenda,
not really knowing much, we just ‘took the plunge in the river’, and got
completely soaked in its flow of amazing generosity, bhakti and the celebration of life.
Accompanied by hundreds of thousands of
pilgrims (warkaris), it truly felt
like we were being part of a river—a river that would eventually dissolve in
the ocean of faith and humanity when over a million pilgrims conclude their
journey at its final destination—the Vitthal temple in Pandharpur. Innumerable tributaries representing various
saints and their teachings come from the tiniest of villages scattered across
the rural landscape of Maharashtra.
Every soul was welcome...the river simply embraced every pilgrim with
open arms…washing away any apparent distinctions of socio-economic class, caste
or gender. We met with many elderly
women who have been coming on this yatra for
several decades. One elderly women in
her eighties chuckled, “my family worries
about me…they think that I cannot do this any longer…but I can’t help it...I
just have to go!”
It was very moving to see a physically-disabled man trying to push up a hill his hand-operated bicycle, and fellow pilgrims offering him support. There were small kids, families—large and small, women walking barefoot, doctor’s group, nature lovers’ group and even Rotarians taking a dip in the pilgrim’s river! A sense of camaraderie and fellowship naturally flowed amongst people, as they greeted each other by calling each other ‘maooli’ (mother)— invoking their mutual respect and reverence for Saint Dnyaneshwara whom they regard as a motherly figure for having bestowed upon them the wisdom and knowledge of universal peace. The boundaries of age and social standing also disappeared as the pilgrims would touch other’s feet and seek blessings from one another. It was also interesting to note how there was no authority or hierarchy that was trying to ‘control’ the flow of the river. Self-organizing and self-discipline seemed to prevail as pilgrims from all walks of life had showed up without anyone inviting them to be part of this sacred journey. When asked what brings them to the event year after year, many expressed that they get tremendous ‘samaadhaan’ (sense of contentment) from joining the waari. We were simply awestruck thinking of how powerful that seed of faith must have been, which has kept this tradition alive and thriving even several centuries after it must have originated.
It was very moving to see a physically-disabled man trying to push up a hill his hand-operated bicycle, and fellow pilgrims offering him support. There were small kids, families—large and small, women walking barefoot, doctor’s group, nature lovers’ group and even Rotarians taking a dip in the pilgrim’s river! A sense of camaraderie and fellowship naturally flowed amongst people, as they greeted each other by calling each other ‘maooli’ (mother)— invoking their mutual respect and reverence for Saint Dnyaneshwara whom they regard as a motherly figure for having bestowed upon them the wisdom and knowledge of universal peace. The boundaries of age and social standing also disappeared as the pilgrims would touch other’s feet and seek blessings from one another. It was also interesting to note how there was no authority or hierarchy that was trying to ‘control’ the flow of the river. Self-organizing and self-discipline seemed to prevail as pilgrims from all walks of life had showed up without anyone inviting them to be part of this sacred journey. When asked what brings them to the event year after year, many expressed that they get tremendous ‘samaadhaan’ (sense of contentment) from joining the waari. We were simply awestruck thinking of how powerful that seed of faith must have been, which has kept this tradition alive and thriving even several centuries after it must have originated.
After having just climbed up a long
mountain stretch, our feet quite exhausted, we were pleasantly surprised to
receive the gift of a foot massage from a Yoga volunteers’ group. How healing and rejuvenating that felt! Whenever we expressed interest in learning
more about the bhakti tradition,
seasoned warkaris very
enthusiastically shared their stories and experiences. One of them even offered his personal prayer
book containing songs and hymns (bhajans
and abhangas) of Saint Tukaram.
Singing and dancing to the tune of very
soulful bhakti songs eased our legs
and brought alive a sense of collective celebration. It was amazing to see men and women pair up
to a spontaneous phugadi dance or following rhythmic steps to the sound of
drum-beats and cymbals. Flags,
multi-colored outfits, sarees, Gandhi
topis, dhotis, flowers...every little
thing added its own charm and beauty to the multi-pronged gathering.
After experiencing ‘a day in the life of warkaris’, we returned home--our bodies
completely exhausted, our clothes soiled but our soul and spirit a little bit
cleansed and calmed!
With deep humility and gratitude in our
hearts for the countless pilgrims we encountered along the way, we would like
to offer a collection of photographs (slideshow) and this week’s Maitri Tune dedicated to the spirit of
kindness and Bhakti. In the future, we wish to be able to walk
the full length of the pilgrimage and would certainly welcome more like-hearted
souls to join us on this walking university of life!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQQpnn9E-CNNTJHSllFUlZGZHM/view
